Custom end table with recessed outlets

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The Plan

We have a corner in our living room where two couches meet and there is just a large empty space. So, we decided to make a table to fill that spot. The table would be about the same height as the couch arm rests and it would be nice to have a place to plug our electronics in for charging.

The table is 30″ wide by 30″ deep and 23″ tall. It has recessed outlet(s), reverse taper legs, and recesses that mimic drawer fronts. The top is made from walnut and the base is made from poplar and is painted. The base construction is mortise and tenon. Due to the narrow legs at the top, the tenons are designed to not interfere with one another as shown below in the plan.

tenon locations for end table — Tenon Layout

Here are a few finished photos showing the recessed outlets and overall style.

image depicting the finished end table — Finished Table

Build Video

I created a build video of the whole process which can be seen below

Rough Cuts and Milling

As with most furniture making the process starts by choosing lumber, rough cutting to size, and milling. The poplar started out at 10/4 and the walnut as 4/4. Everything was cut to length at the miter saw and then cut to width at the band saw before milling. The material for the aprons was resawed at the bandsaw as well.

Lumber after cutting to length and width — After Rough Cuts

Legs and Aprons

I started on the base and cut all the pieces to final length after milling. Then I laid out the tenons on the aprons and the mortises on the legs. The mortises were cut with a router and then squared off with a chisel.

Laying out Leg Orientation so to not get confused — Leg Orientation

The tenons were cut at the table saw with a dado stack and finished with a hand saw, shoulder plane, and chisels.

After the joinery was cut I moved onto tapering the legs, which was accomplished with the band saw. Then I knocked down the high spots with a hand plane and finished them up at the jointer.

The aprons received a large recess to lighten them up and to mimic the visual appeal of drawer fronts. I created a template from 3/4 plywood and pocket screws. Then rough cut the material with a jig saw and used double stick tape and a pattern bit in my router to finish it off. The recesses also received a 45 chamfer. I also had to cut the slots that will recieve the metal z-clips to fasten the table top. I cut those on the router table and a 3/16 bit.

Sand, Sand, Sand

After sanding the pieces, i glued up the base reusing my taper off-cuts to apply proper clamping pressure. After the base came out of the clamps, I cleaned up any glue and did some light sanding.

Paint

I painted the base with latex paint and a handheld Graco spraygun. It worked out pretty well, but latex does not give me the finish I am looking for. I think I am going to try an alkyd paint or pigmented lacquer for my next project and see how that turns out.

Table Top

The table top was a simple panel glue up.

After the top came out of the clamps, I did a rough sand and then cut it to final size with my track saw. Then I added a 45 chamfer to the under side.

Next item was to install the recessed outlet. The outlet cam with instructions, which I followed loosely.

The instructions that came wtih the outlet — Install Instructions

In order to get a tight fit I created a template from 3/4 ply and pocket screws. I laid out the template and traced the location. Then I cut it out with a jig saw, staying off my ling. Then using a pattern bit in my router I matched my template. I had to square the corners with a pull saw. Once the box fit, I had to create a recess for the mounting ears to fit into. This process took quite a bit of time and I utilized a rabbeting bit and chisels.