With my new dust collector up and running, it was time to increase my ductwork diameter.

I read into Bill Pentz’s website and used a couple static pressure calculators that pushed me towards the larger duct size.

Metal vs PVC

My biggest decision was to run PVC, like my current ductwork, or metal ducting.  I ran through some pricing options and here is what I found:

PVC  $475

• 6″ at 10 feet is $23 x 5 = $115
• Wyes are $15 x 3 = $45
• 45 degree $8 x 8 = $64
• Rubber DWV coupling $15 x 1 = $15
• 6″ blast gate $20 x 3 = $60
• 6″ x 10 ft flex hose $60 x 2 = $120
• 6 to 4 reducer SD $7 x 4 = $28
• Clamps (QTY 5) $18 x 2 = $36
• 7″ to 6″ Reducer $8 X 1 = $8

Metal 26ga Ductwork  $600

1. 6″ x 5 feet (QTY 5) is $85 x 2 = $170
2. 45 degree $14 x 2 = $28
3. 6″ Flexible DWV Coupling $15 X 1 = $15
4. Malco Crimpers $32 X 1 = $32
5. Adjustable 90 degrees (Amazon) $15 X 3 = $45
6. Adjustable 90 degrees (Home Depot) $7 X 3 = $21
   1. I didn’t realize they had 26ga until later
7. Powertec Flex Hose (10ft) $50 X 1 = $50
8. Flexaust Flex Hose (5ft) $35 X 2 = $70
9. 6″ Blast Gates $20 X 3 = $60
10. 6″ to 4″ Reducer $14 X 3 = $42
11. Wye – Uncrimped (Best One) $26 X 1 = $26
12. Wye – Crimped on Wrong Side, but Works $22 X 1 = $22
13. Wye – Shaped Like a Y $18 X 1 = $18
14. 7″ to 6″ Reducer $8 X 1 = $8

I already owned sheetmetal snips, so I didn’t need those.  Some additional things that will be needed with either duct solution:

• Foil Tape
• Self Tapping Screws
• Strapping for Hanging Duct
• Drywall Anchors and Blocking
• Reuse 4″ blast gates and Flex Hose

With the small differential, I decided to run metal ducting.  Here are a couple overview shots to provide reference.

 

Installation

Some of the pictures used below are taken after everything was completed.  I did a majority of the joint taping/screwing after everything was hanging and lined up.

Back Wall

I started at the dust collector and worked my way around the shop.  The first piece to go in was the 7 to 6 Reducer(#14).  It came un-crimped and was a bit too large to fit into the outlet.

One of the great things about using metal ducting is that it can easily be crimped a bit smaller to fit snugly onto something.  With PVC, I had to make a bunch of adapters and make multiple trips to the store.

After inserting the reducer, I used an adjustable 90(#5 or #6) to shoot the duct up towards the ceiling.  I didn’t tape or screw any ducting together on this first wall until I was nearly complete with the ceiling runs.  Any twist or misalignment could be adjusted for with the 90s. This wall took me the longest due to a learning curve and the angles.  The wye (#11) pictured below will be used for my bandsaw, drill press, and planer.  This wye is probably the best one that I used.  I ordered three different ones and this one was stout and came un-crimped.

Here is how I attached the strapping to studs.  It cradles the ducting so both screws are actually above duct.

Ceiling Run to  Table Saw

The next run of ducting goes to the middle of my garage where it drops down to my table saw and then continues over to my jointer.  The joists in my ceiling run parallel to the ducting, so I had to use drywall anchors and blocking to hang it.  The blocking is attached to the ceiling and then the strapping attaches to the block.  Doing this also allows full access to tape the joints later.

To get started, I laid out the major components on the ground to visualize and took measurements between each component.  After taking measurements, I cut each duct to length.  I also had to account for my garage door when fully opened so it wouldn’t hit the fixed ducting.

I assembled two lengths of ducting with the wye attached on the ground.  Then, I snapped a line on the ceiling to align my blocking and fastened it.

Since I was working by myself I needed a way to support the ducts near the ceiling.  During my previous install, I figured out a way to do this with the nylon strapping material.  I make extra large loops at each blocking location and slide the assembled ducting through the loops.  So there is a 2-3″ gap between the duct and the blocking at this point.  I pushed the duct into the existing 90 on the back wall and strap the first location in place.  Then continue onto the next strapping location.

Ceiling Run to Jointer

The run to the jointer is pretty similar as the one to the table saw:

• Chalk a line on the ceiling
• Attach blocking
• Nylon loops to “catch” ducting near ceiling
• Measure length
• Slide ducting through loops
• Attach to existing ducting
• Attach strapping
• I was also able to strap to ceiling joists in a few places on this run

I had to make an odd angle for my jointer to clear the cabinet door when opened and allow the gate to work properly.  Crimping the 90 in a few spots made it a tighter fit on the blast gate.  Three screws and some tape hold it in place

Custom Dust Port for Jointer

I wanted to increase my 4″ port on the jointer to a 6″ port.  They are not available to purchase anywhere, so I made my own out of 1/4″ plywood, 6″ take off port, caulk, longer #10 bolts.

The only important thing here is that the bottom of the dust port aligns with the bottom of the chute.  I cut out the rectangle on the table saw.

I outlined the take-off port on the plywood and cut it out with the jigsaw.  I forgot to take pictures of attaching the “take-off”.  It was very flimsy and I should have found a beefier one, but it is working so far.  I used caulk to help seal and then a bunch of foil tape.  I reattached it with some longer #10-24 bolts through the existing holes and taped it up.

I bought 5 feet of flex (#8) hose and I would say that it can only be stretched to 4 feet, which made this a very taught run.  I think I am going to add a 45 degree coupling onto the jointer to kick it towards the wall a bit.

Table Saw and Auxiliary Drop

Once I got all the main duct work together, I went back and screwed/taped all the joints together.  Then I would turn on the  dust collector and listen for leaks.  If i found one, I would add more tape where needed and move on to the next joint.

The last thing I needed to install was the table saw drop.  I initially figured I would just do a 45 degree coupling to a blast gate, but I had this odd shaped wye (#13)left.  So, I figured I would add an auxiliary drop for a 4″ flex hose as well as the table saw.  Here is the crazy thing I came up with.

• Small section of Duct
• Wye
• 6″ blast gate
• 6″ flexible coupling (#3)
• 6″ Adjustable 90
• 6″ to 4″ reducer
• 4″ blast gate (from old system)
• 4″ Fazlok Connector (from old system)

I screwed and taped everything together as this small assembly and put it in place to check my clearance to the garage door.  I got very lucky here.

With all the weight on this thing I needed some way to support it from the ground as well.  So, on the table saw drop, I added some legs and a base.  Pretty simple design.  Just 1/4 bolts protruding out of the ductwork and going into plywood legs.  The base helps the table saw drop stand up on its own when I remove it to fit the wife’s car in the garage.

I bought this 6 to 4 reducer from HD.  It is thinner than 26ga and I think I will end up stepping on it and crushing it in the future.

The vertical section of metal duct is attached to the plywood support.  So, when I need to remove this duct section, I loosen the rubber coupling and push up the duct, angle it off the floor, and pull it out.  It needs to be removable to fit the wife’s car.

The table saw drop goes to to a 4″ wye.  One branch goes to the cabinet base and the other branch goes to my “soon to be” shark guard.

I will add another post, in detail, on the shark guard later on.

Odds and Ends

For the planer and bandsaw, I finished the wye off with a 45 degree and blast gate.  Then a long section of Powermatic flex hose(#7) with a 6 to 4 reducer on the end.  It is a really heavy hose, come to find out.

Tips

Always Wear Gloves

Assembling Snap Lock Pipe

After assembling about 10 sections of duct, I found a good method for snapping together the ducts.  Start on one end on the duct  and snap it together.  Then, I use a vise grip to hold it in place.  Sometimes the two pieces would slide past each other.

The duct is on the ground, then I would put a knee on the seam and work my way down the pipe snapping it together.

Flaring Ends

After cutting the ends of a duct they would  sometimes roll inwards or bend inwards.  Then when I would try to stick another duct inside it would get caught and lead to multiple swear words.  The area near the pinch seam would always catch on stuff.  So, what I started doing was taking a pair of channel locks and lightly flaring the edge outward, especially the pinch seam area.

Cutting the Duct

Probably the hardest part of installing metal duct work is cutting the ducts to length.  Maybe it was due to dull snips, but it takes quite a bit of time to cut each duct to length.  So measure three times and cut once.  I found a few ways that made cutting the duct work a bit easier.

After marking the length on the outside I would start cutting from one side of the seam about 1/3 of the way around.  Then flip the duct around and start cutting the other side.  Then I would clamp the duct to the bench and finish snipping.  The larger portion of the duct (on the left) would continue rolling and stay out of way of my hand/snips.

 

Finished Shots