I have read a few articles/posts online about adding a larger impeller to a Harbor Freight dust collector. The larger impeller pulls more air flow and increases the performance.
The impeller is from a Rikon dust collector. The part number is P60-200-22 and was ~$120. It was backordered and took a while to get to delivered. From the research it has the same shaft diameter as the harbor freight one and is a direct bolt in.
Removing Current Impeller
So, I started the upgrade by removing the 5″ DC hose and the connections at both sides. I will be upgrading to a 6″ hose between the DC and the Super Dust Deputy. I am going to replace this without dismounting the motor/housing from the structure.
After removing the very stiff 5″ hose that came with the DC I removed the screws holding the bottom of the housing on. The bolts I am pointing to below.
Once the bolts are removed the impeller is very accessible.
The next step is to remove the center bolt holding the impeller onto the motor shaft. This bolt is REVERSE THREADED.
The impeller is not super tight on the shaft, but I used the smallest 3 Jaw puller from this set I had.
Here is a shot of pulling the impeller off the shaft.
After removing the impeller I needed to perform the obligatory side by side comparison. The new impeller is on the left and has the vanes in reverse direction. Some readings state that this configuration yields more consistent airflow when static pressure rises.
The next step was to remove the woodruff key from the old impeller and put it in the new one.
I used a small hammer and punch to remove and install the key
Installing New Impeller
The new impeller is a very tight fit with the existing housing. It was also a bit looser fit than I anticipated, but held on there. I reinstalled the center bolt. In hindsight, I should have put some threadlock on there.
Modifying Cover for 6″ DC Hose
In order to modify the housing for the 6″ dust collection hose I used a 6″ HVAC connection from HD and a metal blade in my jig saw.
I marked the diameter of the HVAC connection and drilled a hole with 5/16″ bit to start the jig saw blade. It was a slow cutting process.
After cutting the section off I was a little worried that the cover wasn’t going to be stiff enough and the suction would pull the cover into the impeller. I moved forward and attached the 6″ piece to the cover and added 4 more screws. A total of 8 srews holding it on. Attaching this piece made the cover a little stiffer.
As you can see from the above picture there is a grinder. I had to grind down the screws since they were too long and would hit the impeller.
Final Connections
The next step is to attach the cover to the housing. The 6″ hose fits nicely over the HVAC connector I bought. Unfortunately it doesn’t fit over the SDD inlet. I thought it was going to be a perfect fit, but I didn’t read into it and just assumed. The hose doesn’t fit over the SDD inlet. So, I had to modify my old 6″ to 5″ HVAC connection I bought before with some tin snips.
After the hose (Flexaust 6″ X 5 feet hose from Amazon) and adapter were attached I wrapped it with Foil Tape to make it air tight. I used some 6″ Powertec clamps from Amazon as well.
I didn’t have a way to measure the airflow, but there is a nice improvement. It is a little louder than before and a slightly different tone. The housing cover doesn’t deflect like I was worried, so that isn’t an issue. I am very happy thus far.
Greetings !!! I just bought a 3 set of impeller pullers also and am trying to remove my impeller from my harbor freight unit as well, but its a bear to do. Wasn’t sure how to place the pullers at first but have since realized that the legs go around the inner circular area….but its very difficult to place the legs around the space evenly. And once i get it tightened…..i’m afraid to really really twist the puller harder fearing something will break. Do you have any tips on how to make it easier to remove impeller? i tried a bit of Wd40 but not much help.
Also forgot to mention. Does the woodruff have to be removed BEFORE the impeller can be removed? Thanks.
The woodruff key can remain while you remove the impeller.
Bryan,
I did not need to use any WD40 or anything special to remove the impeller. Once I positioned the three jaw puller, which did take a couple tries, I just gave it a few twists with a ratchet and extension and it came free. I don’t recall it being overly difficult to remove or break loose. Sorry, not real helpful.
We 40 is not a penetrating oil, use either liquid wrench(wench) or on blaster.
I know this is an old thread, this is just for general reference for people who read this. When you’re using a puller, tighten it, but then lightly tap the end of the head of the puller. It doesn’t take much, and it should come right apart. Hope that helps
I just purchased my HF dust collector. While putting it together, I removed the impeller cover to look at the fan blade. I immediately noticed that the side housing is over an inch from the fan blade. Seems to me that I could get a substantial boost by just adding something to reduce that clearance to 3/8″ to 1/4″ . Why spend $120 for a bigger fan blade when we can make this one more efficient?
I understand this was possibly engineered because it is a single stage, but as I’m including a trash can chip/chunk collector BEFORE the impeller, that clearance should not be needed as the big stuff won’t be running thru the fan blade.
Any thoughts on that?
I don’t believe decreasing the gap will increase the overall air flow. If it was an axial fan,like in automotive cooling systems, then perhaps you could pick up a couple percent. Maybe in this case it could improve little, but hard to notice or measure. A bigger impeller, faster impeller speed (potentially dangerous), or decreasing restriction are the only methods I know how to make noticeable gains in air flow.
Are you concerned by the lack of clearance between the impeller and the housing? Any contact could create sparks which would be a significant fire hazard.
I am not too concerned with it. There isn’t much flexing of the impeller or housing that could cause contact.
Thank you sincerely for the outstanding photographs and narratives. My situation requires getting the most out of all of my equipment, including those keeping my lungs working properly.
Thanks for the post. Do you happen to know the shaft diameter, fan diameter and the height of the blades foe the new impeller? Thanks
No, I am afraid I don’t know and I no longer have the HF unit.
P60-200-22
$99.99
Impeller – Sturdy Metal Design with 7 Rear Facing Blades
(Dia. 11-3/4”, Shaft Dia. 3/4”, Height 3-1/4”, Shaft Hub Length 1-1/4”)
California Proposition 65 Warning
Out of stock
i checked the web page of rikon and i counld’t find that impeller for my hf is the impeller on your HF
Why did you get rid of the HF unit?
I felt it was still falling short on airflow with all the upgrades.
Hey Beau, Can you share what you replaced the HF unit with? I have the Rikon impeller in my cart. If that 120$ show go towards something different in your opinion. It world be greatly appreciated to know.
Thanks
Beau, I just tried the same thing with the Rikon Impeller but having a really tough time getting the HF impeller off, It’s like frozen in place. I removed the nut and cap, bought a 3 set of gear pullers from HF and used the smallest one (looks like the same one used) but could not pull it off. In fact part of the “pot metal” ring actually broke off. I wondered about the key also but could not see a way to remove it. I know you’ve moved on to another collector but do you have any advice that might help me?
Earl,
Sorry for the delayed response, I am in the middle of a move.
I would start with some PB blaster or similar to ensure nothing is corroded in there. After that, it is some patience with the 3 jaw puller getting it perfectly aligned. I cant recall if I pulled the key before I pulled the impeller, but maybe that could help.
Good Luck
Earl,
I’m having the same issue. Were you able to get the impeller unstuck and completely removed?
Sorry, I just saw this question. To answer your question I just put the cover back on it and I’m still using it as it came from HF. What I have done is I purchased installed an Oneida Super Dust Deputy and mounted it on a garbage can and a Wynn filter for the fine dust. I’m satisfied with it now.
To all having issues with removal of HF impeller-may have the same issue as my older HF collector. There are 2 set screws on the impeller, which have to be removed before it will come off. Once those are removed, it should come off easily. If not removed, the set screws will significantly scratch the shaft.
I think serious DC occurs around the $800 price level, and requires a 220 line. The HF suits me fine since I’m just a hobbiest. I have a Super Dust Deputy, and increased DC flow mainly by shortening and straightening the duct work as much as possible.
The key that is spoken of is NOT a woodfuff key. It is a square key. Woodruff keys are semi-circular in shape. A standard square key easy enough remove but should only be struck with a brass punch as to not mare the end. Also the key should move freely in the key-way.
Thank you that is good information to share
want to do this upgrade but just found out my JET impeller has a 3/4″,19mm shaft. Know of any suitable upgrade for this?
Thanks
No sorry, I haven’t investigated that model.
The best pullers are ones that yield the most parallel force relative to the shaft. In this case, a three leg puller is not the best choice.
Search your NAPA store for an EVERCRAFT pulley puller
Number 776-9073.
This puller has two arms, which when fastened properly, yield nearly perfect pulls on gears and pulleys. It also works perfectly for this impellers removal. I know, I used it. Off in seconds!
Also, moving from 120 too 240volts will not give you more torque. It will yield the same torque (HP) but enable a lighter weight supply line. Costs in Kw/hour are identical. If you want to stay with 120volts. That’s ok! Just increase your wire size and shorten your run. You may want to increase the breaker size to 20 amps. and dedicate it to your unit.
Tim
A dedicated circuit will become evident when you start tripping the shared breaker. I dedicated two. One for compressor one for DC…..oops and one for the A.C. it’s worth it if you ever encounter a fried outlet. Peace of mind
I’m going to increase my existing impeller as some leaf blowers do. I’m adding aluminum extensions to each vane. Two threaded holes And machine screws to hold each vane extension in place.
Balancing will be mu next hurdle!
Static/Dynamic balancing….off to my auto mechanic!
I’m also changing my electric motor from the feeble 1HP to a 2HP or even a 3 HP. at 3400 RPM.
So, this will cost me about $175.00- $220.00 for the new motor.
I figure I’ll run the new motor at 220 Volts since I have it near by.
The large motor will handle the impeller all day without any torque or heat issues.
I’m using a ‘Super Dust Deputy‘ with a vertical lift of about 5’ .
Peace-
Tim
Another HUGE improvement can be made by switching from a bag to a cartridge filter. There is far more surface area for the impeller to draw air through, and more air flow means better performance in a collector, especially small ones like these.
As an example, I have three collectors. Two are “four bag” systems. Both are three horse Jets. One has bags and the other has cartridges. Even though the cartridge is drawing through a Super dust Deputy and the bag unit is straight in to the impeller, the cartridge is notably better at picking things up off the shop floor.
Hvac supply stores have a puller made for this. It may not be worth the cost to you though.
do they make another kind of impeller for a HF dust collector . Rikom is out of stock
I am not aware of another, but hopefully someone else can comment on their findings.
Perfect fit for the HF 2HP: https://wenproducts.com/products/3403-022-turbo-fan-for-wen-3403?_pos=1&_sid=4ebe6a479&_ss=r
Do NOT wait to purchase it. I waited for 2-3 months for them to go back in stock.
Has anyone ever pointed out that the replacement fan installed on this page has reversed direction on the impeller replacement you used? That negates any increase of air flow you can get by some 28 percent. Any increase you measure would only be from increasing the opening size. Part research will show the correct fan/impeller needed, unless you reverse polarity on the motor turning the impeller and change position of housing outlet there’s isn’t a benefit in making this swap as described.